Umbra Alum Continues Passion for Food Upon Return to US

It is always our hope that Umbra students integrate the experiences of a semester abroad with their culminating senior year upon return at their American home institution.

A recent feature by Wabash College showcases one

Umbra alum's decision to continue a passion for food he nurtured in Perugia. Brad Jones, a current senior at Wabash, took advantage of the student activities made available to him, including the cooking classes held in a Spoleto restaurant. Now back in Indiana, Jones plans to continue his passion for food by enrolling in the Culinary Institute of America. Jones reports, however, that he will return to Italy this December for more inspiration.

Read the full article here: http://www.wabash.edu/profiles/home.cfm?profile_id=177

Festa di San Martino!

Today Italians and Catholics celebrate San Martino - Saint Martin - for his conscientious objection to war, efforts to fight paganism, and the mercy he showed to pagans themselves. This holiday also conveniently falls just during the time of year following vineyard harvests when cantinas are just starting to produce their new wine, or vino novello. And what goes better with red wine than freshly roasted chestnuts? As the weather gets cold, vendors appear on Corso Vannucci to sell their white paper bags of hot castagne to Italians making their evening passeggiata.

Interesting fact: even in American any freshly roasted chestnuts you come across are almost certain to have originated in Europe and crossed the Atlantic before they got into your hands, since the American chestnuts trees were wiped out in a national blight a century ago.

The Renaissance Reborn...On A Platter

Anyone can read Machiavelli's words on how to rule a state, but re-evoking Renaissance tastes at the table is quite another thing. This weekend Professor Simon Young's "History of Food and Culture In Italy" class was able to do just. Professor Young, a longtime resident of Florence, took the students to the resturant "La Pentola d'Oro" (the Golden Pot), famous for its dishes based on orginal Renaissance recipes. On the menu were pork in a sweet and sour sauce and beef in chocolate -- tastes that are odd mixes for us but were typical in the late 1400s. A good time was had by all, mixing learning with eating!

The Food Cultures class with Professor Simon Young on the Ponte Vecchio in Florence. Thanks to Kendall Cassidy from Northeastern for the photo!

Umbra Photo of the Month Contest

Congratulations to Laura Bergstein from the University of Denver for her photo of a fisherman. Laura will enjoy a free meal from Quattro Passi Pizzeria. Auguri Laura!

Searching for Inspiration in Assisi

Yesterday afternoon students in Professor Bill Pettit's Fresco Painting courses put down the brushes and went to the Basilica of San Francesco in nearby Assisi. Despite some missed train confusion -- a regular occurence while navigating Italy's public transportation networks -- the students were able to spend several hours at the Basilica studying the world-famous frescoes for both content and technique.

Can't wait to see everyone's finished works next month at the Umbra Art Show!

Fall In Umbria

These leaves on the ivy on the fortress are about as much color as we get in Umbria in the Fall, though there are beautiful yellow birch trees that hide down in the valleys between the Umbrian hills. The weather is definitely turning now to chilly in the night (though there was a good crowd on costumed students on the Steps of the cathedral last night), though the days remain sunny -- thank goodness for Perugian sun -- and fairly warm. It's the Umbrian version of Indian Summer.

There aren't any hayrides or doughnuts or football games but this week marks a typically Umbrian tradition, new wine and roasting chestnuts. As you can see here, vendors are already out in the center of the city, selling their hot-roasted wares. We're also getting close to San Martino, the traditional night to open up the wine barrels and taste the new wine. Umbra Institute students will likely go for an Umbrian classic, Falo' (which translates to "bonfire"), made by the best local cantina. And next year we'll get back to cider and football!

Olive Oil Producers Open The Taps!

In a riff on the traditional "open cellars" celebrations, Umbrian olive oil producers will be opening up their workshops for tastings the weekend of the 7th-8th of November. The "open cellars" weekends started as a marketing technique of the wine business and quickly became a traditional Fall activity for many Italians. Olive oil, Italy's green gold, has picked up on the idea.

As in the past, visitors to the region over this particular weekend in November will be able to taste Umbria's extraordinary wealth of different and much-prized olive oils and take part in the many other promotional events scheduled, both directly at specially opened olive presses and in the main olive oil producing towns. Some of the highlights will be in nearby Spello, which is considered by many to produce the best oil in the region. For more details, click here. MMMMMMmmmmmm!

Destination Fall Break

Mid-terms are over (hooray!) and students are cashing in their hard earned reward--a week off for Fall Break. Some students will spend it with their visiting families while others will travel around Europe. Paris to Prague, Alicante to Amsterdam, Umbra students will be dispersed all across the continent! Happy and safe travels to all! Buona vacanza!

Scientific Evidence For Snack Breaks

A new study has shown that the combination of lactose in milk and the gluten-chocolate complex in chocolate chip cookies produces a synergistic reaction which increases brainpower and raises concentration levels more than 23%. Nope, we're just kidding, actually, but we're putting out milk and cookies here in the library today anyway. This coming week the students have midterms so we thought we'd make it just a little bit easier for them.

Pizza Workshop

Last night was the last in a series of different workshops offered to Umbra students. Umbra students partook in a Pizza Workshop at local pizzeria Pizza e Musica. Students learned from owner, Felice, what goes into making the pizza dough, how to successfully create pizza's circular form, how to top the pizza and then... how to put the pizza in the oven and rotate it without burning. Everyone was successful and the enjoyed a slice of each pizza made. Just when they thought they couldn't eat any more, we sat down for another pizza (of our choice) made by master pizziaolo, Marco.

(At left, Ian Glass from UC Boulder puts his pizza in the oven to cook, at right, Elizabeth Miller, also a UC Boulder student, poses with pizziaolo, Marco and her pizza)

Fresco Students in Rome

Last Friday, Professor Bill Pettit took students from Umbra's Fresco Painting courses out of the studio and down to Rome on search of inspiration from antiquity. Students started out at the Basilica of San Clemente where they saw the evolution of mosaics and fresco painting from pagan times through Christianity and the Byzantine empire. After a stop at Santi Quattro Coronati, students visited the Scuderia at the Quirinale to see the exhibition running only through January, Rome: The Painting of an Empire. Students gained a new level of appreciation for frescos from antiquity, which were not only produced for their beauty but also as a practical mode of communication and story-telling during the Golden Age of the Roman Empire.

Eurochocolate oozes into Perugia

The first shops have already been set up in Corso Vannucci and the three piazzas that will host this year's edition of the Eurochocolate Festival. Starting this coming Friday the festival kicks off, with a melee of chocolate crunching and munching (and a little drinking, with hot chocolate) and hundreds of thousands of tourists during the nine-day event. Chocolate, chocolate, chocolate, and a whole lot of cocoa! The festival's location is a nod to Perugia's sweet past, as it was the (and still is) the home of the Perugina, the world-famous chocolate company that makes the "bacio" sweets. Hopefully Umbra students will have the opportunity to pop out and get some a piece of the chocolate sculptures to help them study for midterms!

Perugia Named No. 2 Fall European Destination

The Hotel Club Travel Blog, a subsidiary of the popular online travel engine Orbitz, has named Perugia the number 2 top European travel destination for the fall! First and foremost the blog mentioned the upcoming EuroChocolate festival, during which Perugia is completely taken over by chocolate in all its delectable forms. Described as a "well preserved medievel town" and "a major academic center," the writers call Perugia "one of the most welcoming places in Italy." Che onore!
Other places included in the top five fall destinations for their fabulous weather and local festivals are Parma, Italy; Sitges, Spain; Galway, Ireland; and the Beaujolais region in France.

Umbra Pizza Night

Last night students gathered for the bi-monthly pizza night on Umbra. It was held at local pizzeria, Il Paiolo, where they make pizza the traditional way--cooked to delicious perfection in a wood-burning oven.

Pizza night is a chance for students to gather as a group every two weeks and share their experience abroad with other students, talk about their classes, travel plans and maybe even make a new friend.

Thanks to everyone for a great night!

Photo of the Month Winner

This month's winner of Photo of the Month is Elisa Richardson from Depauw University. Elisa's photo is entitled "Rocca Contra il Mare." She will enjoy a free meal from Quattro Passi Pizzeria.

"Caffe', anyone?"

Where does the name "mokka" come from, and what does it mean in Italian? Until what time can you drink a cappuccino in Italy without Italians finding it strange? Who drinks caffe' in vetro? These were some of the themes of yesterday's Coffee Workshop, one of a series of workshops sponsored by the Umbra Institute not only to give students hands- (and mouths-) on experience with various Italian foods, but also to teach their "cultural significance." And heck, who doesn't like a good cup o' Joe? The workshops continue next week with cheese!

Fall 2009 - Primo Incontro con Tandem

Umbra students were met with a large Italian gathering at Tandem's "Primo Incontro" or first meeting this week.

Americans and Italians alike met at the popular brewery and restaurant, Il Birraio, located in the beautiful Porta Sole. Despite tongues wagging in two languages, participants still had time to sip on some sangria. Here's to a great time had by all!

Ci vediamo la settimana che viene!

"Bakin' Love"

Umbra student, Melissa Martinez from Austin, Texas blogs about her experience in Italy never leaving out the ever-important detail that is the food!

Catch her blog, "Bakin' Love" about the cooking class she participated in with six other Umbra students this past Friday.


Thanks for sharing, Melissa!

Aperitivo 101

Some say the ancient Egyptians started the tradition by drinking bitter drinks with finger foods. Others date the birth of this Italian evening activity to the 1920s and the popularity of vermouth in Milan. Whenever (and whenever) it started, the aperitivo is part of modern-day Italian culture. Starting from the belief that "L'appetito viene mangiando" (Appetite comes while you eat), Italians often get together in the evening, after work but before dinner, and have a small drink with snacks. Umbra students got together last night and learned about the aperitivo, both the theoretical and practical. After a short history of the aperitivo, students ordered some typical drinks (Campari soda, prosecco, and the famous Spritz) and enjoyed potato chips, tramezzini, olives, and other goodies. The Aperitivo 101 workshop will be repeated in two weeks - keep your eyes peeled for signups!

One Last Weekend of Summer Sun...

This past weekend thirty-eight Umbra students joined staff members Lindsey Thompson and Rachel Bethany for one last weekend in the sun around Naples and the Penisola Sorrentina, or Peninsula of Sorrento. We stopped first on Friday morning at Pompeii just outside Naples for a guided tour of the ruins, preserved by volcanic ash since the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD. Following the coast along the Bay of Naples, we proceeded to beautiful Sorrento on Friday afternoon, where the bright sun quickly made everyone forget that fall has already taken hold back in Perugia. Saturday morning we boarded the ferry at the port in Sorrento and rode 45 minutes over to beautiful Capri, where the weather was equally gorgeous and students were able to spend the day renting boats to ride around the island and swimming in the crystal-clear water (and window shopping!). Saturday night the weather started to look threatening, but Sunday morning the rain had passed and the sky was clear enough to see as far as the islands of Procida and Ischia during our tour of Naples. Our tour guide Paola, a native of Sorrento, gave us a fantastic overview of the history and sights of Naples, and pointed students in the direction of Pizzeria San Michele, mentioned in the recent novel Eat, Pray, Love. After everyone had a chance to sample the world-famous Neapolitan pizza we headed back up to Perugia, everyone having enjoyed one last weekend of summer before settling back into the fall academic semester.

Fall 2009 Begins with a Bang

The first week of Umbra Elective classes began with a bang as students had a busy week this week, both in and outside the classroom.

Sunday students participated in various outings in Umbra--one at the nearby lake, Lago Trasimeno and another in Assisi. While the historical walking tour was rained out on Monday (and is to be rescheduled) the Umbra Gelato Night on Tuesday was a big success! Thursday a few students attended a charity show at Perugia's noble theatre, Teatro Morlacchi and this morning thirty-eight students left for a three day trip to Pompeii, Sorrento, Capri and Naples!

Next week a pizza night (on Umbra) will be held on Tuesday night at Pizzeria Paiolo.

Here's to another great week in Perugia at Umbra!

More Nooks or More Crannies?

Yesterday despite the threat of rain a large group of Umbra students went on a traipse around the city. While not academic in nature, the tour wasn't just to point out panoramas and good restaurants. Umbra staff member Zach Nowak lead the tour, an almost goofy collection of tales (true and otherwise) about Perugia. Students heard stories such as "The Salt War" (or, Why The Bread Here Is Horrible), "The Orphans of Via Alunni," and "The Aqueduct That Brought More Debts Than Water." The tour will be repeated in a few weeks for any other interested students.

Welcome Aperitivo

Wednesday night was the first all-student event sponsored by the Umbra Institute. The venue was Argentina, Perugia's newest restaurant and hip place for an aperitivo, a before-dinner snack with friends that Italians can't do without. Students were feted with a selection of Umbrian and central Italian cheeses, salami and dried sausage (taste that fennel!), and all took place on the terraces built into the Etruscan wall that surrounds this beautiful hilltop city. The students' next appointment is tomorrow's Perugia Nooks & Crannies tour - sign up in the Bartolo building today.

A Fresh Beginning

This past Friday, students arrived in Perugia to commence the fall semester. As if right on time, the crisp fall air breezed in with them, cooling the city off after a humid, hot summer.

This weekend students participated in Umbra's orientation, first moving into their new apartments and unpacking, the exciting realization settling in that they get to live here, in this authentic medieval town, for the next four months. Four months of an unforgettable adventure of a lifetime.

Benvenuti Umbra Students Fall 2009!

In Boca al Lupo!

Arriving from Philadelphia, Dallas, Sicily, Sorrento, and London, the Fall 2009 Full Immersion students have arrived in Perugia!

Several of the students were lucky to have spent August traveling around Europe and Italy and thus avoid the usual first-night jet lag, and the others are catching up quickly. After the two and a half hour ride up to Perugia from Fiumicino Airport in Rome on Monday afternoon, students had a chance to relax last night and get to know each other over dinner at Cafe di Perugia. Umbra professors Francesco Burzacca and Roberta Mugno, who will conduct weekly tutorial sessions to supplement the regular courses at the Stranieri, as well as staff members Zach Nowak and Rachel Bethany did their best to reassure the students that this morning's placement exam at the Università di Stranieri would be a breeze, but even so we spied some last minute trapassato remoto cramming! In boca al lupo to the Fall 2009 Full Immersion students as you start out with your studies at the Università.

Top Left: Umbra Staff Member Zach Nowak entertains students with his ever-expanding sense of humor.

Bottom Right: Student Bailey Smith loved her first meal in Perugia!

A Presto!

Now that summer session has come to an end, the Institute staff will take a brief pausa before preparing for the Fall 2009 students' arrival. Fall '09 and other prospective students should contact the staff by email with questions during this time: info@umbra-institute.com. 

Until we return, follow our occasional updates on Twitter: www.twitter.com/umbrainstitute

Summer Art Show

Last night students from the Fresco Painting, Pastel, and Photography courses unveiled their works from the summer semester to the Umbra community. As always, visitors were blown away to discover what talent lies in the halls of the Umbra Institute! From top left, works from the pastel class, students Ashley Hall and Jenifer Miller-Dickey with Professor Martha Wakeman, and Alexandra Sedor and Amanda Romano pose by their newly completed fresco.

Tandem on the Terrazza

Wednesday evening Umbra students met up with Italian students from the local universities for an hour of casual language practice and cultural exchange.



Tandem was hosted this week at La Terrazza, an open air lounge above the mercato aperto in the center of Perugia, with live music and a breathtaking panorama view across the hills towards Asssisi. Students chatted about Italian and American stereotypes as well as the topic on everyone's mind as the weather turns warm -- plans for summer vacation!

Tandem will be taking a pausa for July and August... ci vediamo in September!

Inspiration on the lake!

Creative Writing professor Cynthia Clough and her class took the ferry across Lago Trasimeno to Isola Maggiore last week to find inspiration in writing. The weather could not have been better, and the class enjoyed hiking, dining, and working on writing exercises to extract some of their most creative ideas.
Isola Maggiore is a small island on Lake Trasimeno and a tiny fishing village with houses dating back to the 14th and the 16th centuries. It is the home of only 15 permanent residents, and gauging from the black and white postcards everywhere it’s clear that little has changed on the island's single street. Visitors can find not only stunning views, but a healthy array of flora and fauna. The islands main attractions are the church of San Michele Arcangelo that stands at the top of the hill. It is from the 12th century and has fine Umbrian school paintings from the late 13th century to the 15th century. There is also Guglielmi castle, built in 1885. It was built on the site previously occupied by the 1328 convent and church of St Francis. Oddly, the islanders specialize in making Irish lace. The technique was introduced in 1904 by the Marchesa Elena Guglielmi, when she imported an Irish housekeeper to the island.

La Quintana a Foligno!

Foligno, in the heart of Umbria and Italy, is famous worldwide for the Quintana, the jousting tournament which in June and September renews the challenge among the knights of its ten wards. It is a great feast of people, colors and passions, but also an accurate historical, scenic, iconographic and gastronomic reconstruction of the Italian Baroque. The historical center of Foligno is traditionally divided into ten rioni (wards).
The festival’s main events take place in the piazza, however, it is in the taverns were you will find the real action. The Taverns are the heart of the wards and where people meet and taste Umbrian dishes, an occasion which brings back the atmosphere of the spectacular banquets typical of the Baroque period. The food served in the taverns by characters in costumes is prepared following the 17th century recipes. From the architectonic point of view the taverns are very interesting because they are located in the cellars or other parts of the old palaces
The Giostra della Quintana is a knight ring jousting tournament based on a historical event. The definition of Quintana comes from the 5th road of the Roman military camps, where the soldiers were trained to the lance fighting. They run against a dummy-soldier, trying to catch a ring hanging from an arm of the dummy. Here the origin of the tournament's name, but the first definition and documented "Quintana" as a knights' jousting tournament during a festival, dates back to 1448. Since then, in Foligno, the "Quintana" has been held uninterruptedly every year. The knights are 10, each representing a quarter of the Town. Rushing at gallop, they have to catch 3 rings having smaller size at each tournament. The rings are hanging from a rotating statue represent Mars the Roman god of war. A number of happenings involve the whole town and a parade of 800 persons dressed in original-like precious dresses walk in the town the day before the joust takes place. For more information and a program of the events please click here.

Festa della Repubblica

On June 2nd the people of Italy celebrate the official birth of the Italian Republic. The republic was established in 1946 after a public vote to decide whether Italy would become a democratic republic or remain a monarchy following World War II and the end of fascism. The Italian royal family -- the House of Savoy that had ruled Italy since its unification into one state in the 19th century -- faced the unpopularity of their ties to Mussolini and went into exile. Nationally the pro-republic versus monarchy vote went 54% to 46%, while nearly 72% of the people of Umbria voted for the republic. Somewhat predictably, it took more than two weeks -- more than a few breaks for cafè perhaps -- for the results of the vote to be certified by the high court, by which time Alcide De Gasperi, an Italian statesman who had opposed Mussolini and fascism and founded the Christian Democrat political party, had already been declared provisional Head of State for three days. Happy Birthday, Italy!